One of nature’s most remarkable exhibitions
It
was just before sunset and the constant flow of molten lava from
Kilauea, the most active of Hawaii’s volcanoes, was glowing ever
brighter. Plumes of smoke rose from the point where the red hot liquid
met the Pacific Ocean; they swirled with the strengthening wind and
occasionally cleared to reveal a distant waterfall of lava some 100m
high. It was one of nature’s most remarkable exhibitions – an active
volcano that refuses to stop erupting. (Sameena Jarosz)
Devastating effects
Devastating effects
When
Kilauea started erupting in 1983, no one could have predicted the
impact it would have on the landscape around the Big Island’s southern
coast. Over the last 30 years, hardened lava has covered around 50
square miles of land and the cooled rock has extended the island by
around 500 acres. It has destroyed more than 200 homes and buried almost
10 miles of road; signs like the one pictured once stood tall by the
roadside. But despite its destructive force, Kilauea attracts huge
numbers of people to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park each year to see the volcano’s powerful effects for themselves. (Sameena Jarosz)
Striking evidence
Life prevails
The very thing that devastated the town of Kalapana is also slowly bringing new life to this coastal area. Shoots are growing from the fertile volcanic rock, with ferns twisting upwards and fragile flowers – most of which are indigenous to Hawaii – adding a splash of colour to the monochrome surroundings. Just as new life is springing from the ground, residents such as Adler are working hard to create their own new start, knowing full well that Kilauea will always have the final say on their future. (Sameena Jarosz)
Striking evidence
The
national park’s main road, the Chain of Craters Road, once ran along
the Big Island’s southern coast. But over the last few decades, a series
of lava flows have permanently shut a seven-mile section of the route,
smothering the tarmac with several feet of volcanic rock and leaving
drivers with a 50-mile journey between the two open stretches of road. A
few glimpses of the old road remain, providing striking evidence of
Kilauea’s reach. (Sameena Jarosz)
The threat of further eruptions
For
three decades local communities have lived knowing that the volcano
could take their homes at any time. That is what happened to residents
in the nearby town of Kalapana in 1990 when around 200 homes disappeared
under the lava. Cheryl Adler lost half of her 21-acre farm and had to
evacuate her home on the slopes of the volcano, but returned in 2001 to
maintain her remaining fruit trees, despite the ever-present threat of
further eruptions.
The lava took over more of Kalapana in 2010, and Adler recalls being summoned to a neighbour’s home to help evacuate her belongings. The neighbour decided not to leave and they spent the night playing the piano, the glow of the lava flowing barely 30 yards from the house. Miraculously, the lava stopped advancing and her neighbour’s home is still intact. Despite the ongoing risks, some have even built new houses (pictured), only a few metres from where homes were lost. (Graeme Churchard)
The lava took over more of Kalapana in 2010, and Adler recalls being summoned to a neighbour’s home to help evacuate her belongings. The neighbour decided not to leave and they spent the night playing the piano, the glow of the lava flowing barely 30 yards from the house. Miraculously, the lava stopped advancing and her neighbour’s home is still intact. Despite the ongoing risks, some have even built new houses (pictured), only a few metres from where homes were lost. (Graeme Churchard)
Making a living from the lava
Adler now rents out cabins at the Kalapana Lava Refuge on the slopes of the volcano and also runs Poke-a-Stick Lava Tours,
where she takes visitors hiking to get within poking distance of the
red-hot lava (the route and length of the hike depends on where the
latest lava seam has opened up). She describes her new enterprise as
“making lemonade out of lemons”, sharing with hikers her personal
experience with Kilauea’s eruptions and colourful tales about how the
residents of Kalapana have bravely faced nature’s attack. (Sameena
Jarosz)
Dangerously mesmerising
After
a couple of hours of hiking, the air temperature suddenly rose and a
red glow appeared in the ground ahead. Walking carefully in single
file, Adler led us to within a few feet of the glowing lava. A few steps
to the right and the ground was hot enough to melt hiking boots without
warning. Yet the very thing that was so dangerous was also mesmerising.
The sight of the vibrant, slowly moving lava beneath the rocks –
creation in its rawest form – made it impossible to avoid stopping every
few paces to examine the display. (Sameena Jarosz)
Unmistakable warnings
It
was at the edge of the lava flow that Adler’s sticks came into use. As
the name of her tour suggests, hikers are encouraged to poke their
sticks directly into the flowing lava, opening a small, new seam of
glowing, red hot liquid that then makes its slow course across the rocky
ground. The tip of our sticks caught fire immediately with the intense
heat; an unmistakable warning not to step any closer. (Sameena Jarosz)
The highlight of the hike
Adler
charted a trail across the old lava flows to reach the shore just
before sunset. The magical glow of the lava is best witnessed in the
dark, and a handful of hikers stayed on the cliff for a while after
sunset, staring as the glow of the hot rocks grew ever brighter. Hard as
it was to leave the view behind, it was eventually time to make the
long hike back. The walk required flashlights and extra caution, as a
slip on the unforgiving, jagged surface could easily cause an injury.
(Sameena Jarosz)
Life prevails The very thing that devastated the town of Kalapana is also slowly bringing new life to this coastal area. Shoots are growing from the fertile volcanic rock, with ferns twisting upwards and fragile flowers – most of which are indigenous to Hawaii – adding a splash of colour to the monochrome surroundings. Just as new life is springing from the ground, residents such as Adler are working hard to create their own new start, knowing full well that Kilauea will always have the final say on their future. (Sameena Jarosz)
No comments:
Post a Comment